+ TRIP TO KKH
First Day
Today dated 8-6-2008, firstday of the Gilgit trip we reached at the NATCO office in Pirwadhai but we were shocked to know that there were no seats until three days and due to the rates the transporters had also a strike going on. Actually we were supposed to go by air but at the last moment our seats were cancelled and we had to go by bus. Somehow we got our seats booked through a friend of baba. The bus was scheduled to go at 9 P:M. We then headed to nano’s home off course we couldn’t go back to our home. The day at nano’s home was boring for me. At 8 P:M we left the home for the bus station. I was very excited too see the bus standing outside and a beautifully in scripted NATCO was surely looking good. At 9P:M we were seated in the bus but the bus started at 9:10 P:M. I thought a late start was an indication of a late end and I was right the bus was an AC ones. We went through the GT Road till Hasanabdal then we changed our route towards the KKH. The initial KKH is just an ordinary road with nothing too see. We reached Haripur at 10:05 P:M that’s a hell of a time for a bus. We stopped for 30 minutes in a pit stop at this time when I am writing this diary people are staring at me as if I had six eyes and two horns. Two girls came up to me they were looking like Pathans but I ignored them. They were staring at me; actually I was supposed to stare at them. Then the whole night I kept playing hide and seek with my sleep Abottabad passed then Chakkar Plains and then Batagram. Now the Indus River is passing by us. At last we reached the first Important station Besham. Besham is a very important city because it is the only road link of Swat to the Northern Pakistan. Here all the smuggled and un customed items are brought from Swat. We reached there at night that’s why we didn’t went to the bazaar. We had entered the Kohistan area. Kohistan means (the land of the un governable) and it is so true. Kohistan has a long history of fights, battles, rebels and plundering of caravans still they are the same. The British came here and were defeated over and over again. Here separate tribes rule their respective lands. We can see a great diversity in their culture and I suppose that is because of their mountain lands and tough terrain and if any one came to them from the outside world they wont let him join them. When we entered the Kohistan area we were accompanied by two police officers. The mountains in Kohistan are rocky but there is little greenery in them there are shrubs on them. When
baba tried to ask a little school girl that in which school did she study she replied, give me some money (paisa they na).
Second Day
The river is flowing besides us. As soon as we leave
Kohistan large and huge mountains with no greenery are standing like huge giants. We
are in the Diamer Valley. We saw the Diamer Bhasha Dam it is under construction. Here there are huge reservoirs of sand besides the river and on the slopes of the mountains. This sand contains copper, gold, platinum, diamonds and precious stones. The time was 10:45 A:M. We stopped at the Shangrila resort. We moved on the bus driver is so flying up this bus the classical Indian song were just eating up my mind but this too was a great fun indeed. Mama was suffering as I could see it from her face and the rest of us are just OK. Although there were very beautiful sceneries but it was the most boring part of the journey. I saw Nanga Parbat (naked mountain). It was hidden in between a group of mountains. It was covered with snow at that place the KKH looked like this
The KKH is a marvel a man made marvel I imagine how difficult it would be to construct this eighth wonder of the world cutting through the mountains and huge suspension bridges. At last we reached Gilgit at 2 P: M. At last the destination had been reached. We were tired but excited too. When we got of the bus I saw an army officer standing I didn’t know that he was waiting for us until baba shook his hands I took the bags and followed baba. To my surprise there stood two army jeeps for us. The first one was for us and the second one was for our luggage there was a gunman and few officers there to greet us. I handed over the luggage to the army man he said to me that are you sure that that’s all. I said yes. He said you should check it again I said that’s all I am sure. We then headed to the SCO Mess. We were escorted to the Mess like Generals. It was a different felling for me and for everyone else. We crossed the China Bridge down the bridge the Gilgit River was flowing. We reached the Mess the doors were opened for us with a salute. We were shown our way to the quarter. We were then served with grape juice. We then ordered Chicken Karahi we were hungry for more then twenty hours. The time passed like days and at last when the dish came we ate it like monkeys, monkeys eating bananas. We then took a nap. After I woke up I went out to look at the Mess. The mess was an Officers Mess it had huge dishes and antennas unlike I have ever seen before. They had quarters for the Officers they had gardens and basketball courts there were families living there. The Mess was of SCO (Special Communication Organization).
We then hired a taxi to go to the main bazaar. Hiring a taxi in Gilgit is a very tough job because any car can become a taxi and there is no limitation on an ordinary car and a taxi. We reached the bazaar. The bazaars of Gilgit city are densely populated with goods and people. The goods come from China, Central Asia, and some are local. There are many shops of precious stones. The different stones in these shops are lapis lousily, pyrites, gold, silver, quartz, rubies, crystals and diamonds. There are luxurious hotels. There was an Indian Army Helicopter standing there which was captured during the 1999 Kargil War. One thing made me upset that the precious stones were produced in Pakistan but for cutting and purifying the stones were sent to China and then brought back to Pakistan which increased their price. The time we went to Gilgit was bad as the prices were increasing rapidly due to this many shops were closed. There business was affected. We went to a fruit shop and were shocked to know that they had cherries from France. We then headed to the Jewellery shops. The designs were not different from those in the Lower Punjab. There were decorative items lamps, chairs, swords and paintings. We went back to the Mess. We ate dinner and then went to bed. I was lying in my bed. I could hear the river flowing. My eyes were closing possibly asking me to close my eyes.
Third Day
The next day we planed to go to the Naltar Valley. I woke up at 6:45 A:M the weather was chilly. I went for a morning walk and gazed at the snowy mountains. We had already booked a Village Jeep we packed our bags with some necessary items. The jeep arrived at 8:30. I was very excited to see the jeep which I only see in the TV. The jeep was a different experience it had no windows. We started our journey on our way we went to the Chinese graveyard .These Chinese were killed during the construction of KKH. This graveyard is in Danyor a small town just next to Gilgit. We passed a wooden bridge through a tunnel. We continued our journey on a trek. The next important village is Nomal. The Gilgit River was running besides us. The water of this river is not good as its color was brownish. The most pleasant thing was as the road turned a cool breeze from the river came to our face splashing. The area on this side of the area is dependant on two crops mostly wheat and potato. At last we entered the Naltar Valley. The road to Naltar is not so bad. A complete carpeted road leads to Naltar some of its part are under construction. The most amazing thing for me was that in the mean time the whole Pakistan was suffering from severe load shedding while the Naltar valley had no load shedding. The Chinese companies had built small hydro power plants. There were two 18 MW power plants and another 32 MW power plant was under construction. Its good to see that the administration had realized the great gift which they had been given in the form of River Naltar. The dams have been constructed on this river. The Chinese have dedicated so much to Pakistan that we can’t repay them. The driver of the Jeep was friendly so he told us about the area. We ate some fresh tree cherries. The thing to be noted is that they do not grow cherries for commercial purpose but only for household use. If they cultivate it commercially they could earn so much as cherry is one of the most expensive fruit in Pakistan. The jeep ride was getting bumpier. I would always remember this ride. At last we reached our destination. The place almost gave a deserted look as there were no tourists although the tourist season had started. Naltar is a valley and strategically important since centuries. Huge snow covered mountains have covered this valley from all sides. Below the mountains there are lush green meadows. There are glaciers in this valley. The potatoes in this area are very cheap. We went to an Air force Mess and a skiing club. The chair lift was out of work. The time we went the Mess was being renovated. After resting for sometime we planned to go outside. We reached a spot where a small mosque was built then we climbed up the small mountain on the way we found some very rare herbs these only grow in high altitudes. On the top we saw a very ancient bunker and if one looked down it looked like a conquerors corridor with immense strategic importance. Then we went to the skiing slope.
We walked along a stream and the whole time me and my brothers were searching for precious stones and my mother for rare plants. All I found was a golden colored stone and a white colored stone which were extremely important to my disappointed heart. I came to know that why the tourists are not here, because there had been Shia-Sunni-Ismaili clashes. We ordered our food and ate it in a traditionally decorated tent. It was decorated in a more Central Asian like style. Long red colored sofas and rugs were lying down. After having all the fun which we could have we decided to return back. I saw the last glimpses of the beautiful valley. I asked my father to drive the jeep and obtain a rare chance to drive on a mountainous trek. My dad being such a good driver accepted this offer and as soon as we left the spot the car became stuck. We reached back Gilgit and decided to go to the market. I went to a mobile shop in search of some cheap Chinese mobile phones. I asked the price of a mobile phone. The shopkeeper after thinking replied JUST 7000 Rupees. God damn! I said is he out of his mind or is he drunk. A mobile with no guarantee no brand and above all it was Chinese made, was so expensive. I was very disheartened. We went back to the Mess and ate baked potatoes for dinner. I watched some TV and then went to the garden nearby. I met some families living there. These were the families of the army Officers living there. We were getting closer to them that we had to leave.
Fourth day
The next day we packed for a long and interesting journey to Sost. We sat in a van and started our journey. I got a front seat. The first town on the way was Danyore. The road after Gilgit is smooth and very good that even small cars can go. After we pass Gilgit the Gilgit River becomes the Khunjerab River. Actually it is the same river which on the Chinese side is called Taxshang River, when it comes on the Khunjerab side becomes Khunjerab River, then river Gilgit, and then Indus finally ends up at Karachi. The driver was a local man he told us that the mountains here contained red rubies and anyone who could find one he owns that. On the way saw the Altit fort which is on steep cliff. On the way I saw Rakaposhi Mountain. At last after hours of travel we reached Sost, Sost is a small town surrounded by mountains. There is small bazaar. We stopped there at a motel (Ski Ways).The local population is dependant on tourism, trade and transport. The goods coming from China pass through Sost. The first city for these goods is Sost; here these goods are inspected by the customs. We had rest and in the evening we went to a nearby village we had a friend here he took us to his village up the hill. There were orchards of khubanis. The house was good. It had large windows which gave a perfect scenery.
View of Sost City
We met the eldest member of the family. She was in a traditional dress, her age probably close or above 100.Hunza valley is one of the five places where people attain 120 years average. Our friend introduced her to us she was his mother. He told us that now she is a Great grand mother. She has seen her son’s
son’s son. The women here very long ages. They told us that any youngster who wants to study is sent to study in Karachi. We drank a local drink called Qamaruddin. This drink is thick and made up of dried khubanis. It tasted good. We then headed back to the motel. At night Sost is so quiet as if no one lives here. It’s a calm place.
First Day
Today dated 8-6-2008, firstday of the Gilgit trip we reached at the NATCO office in Pirwadhai but we were shocked to know that there were no seats until three days and due to the rates the transporters had also a strike going on. Actually we were supposed to go by air but at the last moment our seats were cancelled and we had to go by bus. Somehow we got our seats booked through a friend of baba. The bus was scheduled to go at 9 P:M. We then headed to nano’s home off course we couldn’t go back to our home. The day at nano’s home was boring for me. At 8 P:M we left the home for the bus station. I was very excited too see the bus standing outside and a beautifully in scripted NATCO was surely looking good. At 9P:M we were seated in the bus but the bus started at 9:10 P:M. I thought a late start was an indication of a late end and I was right the bus was an AC ones. We went through the GT Road till Hasanabdal then we changed our route towards the KKH. The initial KKH is just an ordinary road with nothing too see. We reached Haripur at 10:05 P:M that’s a hell of a time for a bus. We stopped for 30 minutes in a pit stop at this time when I am writing this diary people are staring at me as if I had six eyes and two horns. Two girls came up to me they were looking like Pathans but I ignored them. They were staring at me; actually I was supposed to stare at them. Then the whole night I kept playing hide and seek with my sleep Abottabad passed then Chakkar Plains and then Batagram. Now the Indus River is passing by us. At last we reached the first Important station Besham. Besham is a very important city because it is the only road link of Swat to the Northern Pakistan. Here all the smuggled and un customed items are brought from Swat. We reached there at night that’s why we didn’t went to the bazaar. We had entered the Kohistan area. Kohistan means (the land of the un governable) and it is so true. Kohistan has a long history of fights, battles, rebels and plundering of caravans still they are the same. The British came here and were defeated over and over again. Here separate tribes rule their respective lands. We can see a great diversity in their culture and I suppose that is because of their mountain lands and tough terrain and if any one came to them from the outside world they wont let him join them. When we entered the Kohistan area we were accompanied by two police officers. The mountains in Kohistan are rocky but there is little greenery in them there are shrubs on them. When
baba tried to ask a little school girl that in which school did she study she replied, give me some money (paisa they na).
Second Day
The river is flowing besides us. As soon as we leave
Kohistan large and huge mountains with no greenery are standing like huge giants. We
are in the Diamer Valley. We saw the Diamer Bhasha Dam it is under construction. Here there are huge reservoirs of sand besides the river and on the slopes of the mountains. This sand contains copper, gold, platinum, diamonds and precious stones. The time was 10:45 A:M. We stopped at the Shangrila resort. We moved on the bus driver is so flying up this bus the classical Indian song were just eating up my mind but this too was a great fun indeed. Mama was suffering as I could see it from her face and the rest of us are just OK. Although there were very beautiful sceneries but it was the most boring part of the journey. I saw Nanga Parbat (naked mountain). It was hidden in between a group of mountains. It was covered with snow at that place the KKH looked like this
The KKH is a marvel a man made marvel I imagine how difficult it would be to construct this eighth wonder of the world cutting through the mountains and huge suspension bridges. At last we reached Gilgit at 2 P: M. At last the destination had been reached. We were tired but excited too. When we got of the bus I saw an army officer standing I didn’t know that he was waiting for us until baba shook his hands I took the bags and followed baba. To my surprise there stood two army jeeps for us. The first one was for us and the second one was for our luggage there was a gunman and few officers there to greet us. I handed over the luggage to the army man he said to me that are you sure that that’s all. I said yes. He said you should check it again I said that’s all I am sure. We then headed to the SCO Mess. We were escorted to the Mess like Generals. It was a different felling for me and for everyone else. We crossed the China Bridge down the bridge the Gilgit River was flowing. We reached the Mess the doors were opened for us with a salute. We were shown our way to the quarter. We were then served with grape juice. We then ordered Chicken Karahi we were hungry for more then twenty hours. The time passed like days and at last when the dish came we ate it like monkeys, monkeys eating bananas. We then took a nap. After I woke up I went out to look at the Mess. The mess was an Officers Mess it had huge dishes and antennas unlike I have ever seen before. They had quarters for the Officers they had gardens and basketball courts there were families living there. The Mess was of SCO (Special Communication Organization).
We then hired a taxi to go to the main bazaar. Hiring a taxi in Gilgit is a very tough job because any car can become a taxi and there is no limitation on an ordinary car and a taxi. We reached the bazaar. The bazaars of Gilgit city are densely populated with goods and people. The goods come from China, Central Asia, and some are local. There are many shops of precious stones. The different stones in these shops are lapis lousily, pyrites, gold, silver, quartz, rubies, crystals and diamonds. There are luxurious hotels. There was an Indian Army Helicopter standing there which was captured during the 1999 Kargil War. One thing made me upset that the precious stones were produced in Pakistan but for cutting and purifying the stones were sent to China and then brought back to Pakistan which increased their price. The time we went to Gilgit was bad as the prices were increasing rapidly due to this many shops were closed. There business was affected. We went to a fruit shop and were shocked to know that they had cherries from France. We then headed to the Jewellery shops. The designs were not different from those in the Lower Punjab. There were decorative items lamps, chairs, swords and paintings. We went back to the Mess. We ate dinner and then went to bed. I was lying in my bed. I could hear the river flowing. My eyes were closing possibly asking me to close my eyes.
Third Day
The next day we planed to go to the Naltar Valley. I woke up at 6:45 A:M the weather was chilly. I went for a morning walk and gazed at the snowy mountains. We had already booked a Village Jeep we packed our bags with some necessary items. The jeep arrived at 8:30. I was very excited to see the jeep which I only see in the TV. The jeep was a different experience it had no windows. We started our journey on our way we went to the Chinese graveyard .These Chinese were killed during the construction of KKH. This graveyard is in Danyor a small town just next to Gilgit. We passed a wooden bridge through a tunnel. We continued our journey on a trek. The next important village is Nomal. The Gilgit River was running besides us. The water of this river is not good as its color was brownish. The most pleasant thing was as the road turned a cool breeze from the river came to our face splashing. The area on this side of the area is dependant on two crops mostly wheat and potato. At last we entered the Naltar Valley. The road to Naltar is not so bad. A complete carpeted road leads to Naltar some of its part are under construction. The most amazing thing for me was that in the mean time the whole Pakistan was suffering from severe load shedding while the Naltar valley had no load shedding. The Chinese companies had built small hydro power plants. There were two 18 MW power plants and another 32 MW power plant was under construction. Its good to see that the administration had realized the great gift which they had been given in the form of River Naltar. The dams have been constructed on this river. The Chinese have dedicated so much to Pakistan that we can’t repay them. The driver of the Jeep was friendly so he told us about the area. We ate some fresh tree cherries. The thing to be noted is that they do not grow cherries for commercial purpose but only for household use. If they cultivate it commercially they could earn so much as cherry is one of the most expensive fruit in Pakistan. The jeep ride was getting bumpier. I would always remember this ride. At last we reached our destination. The place almost gave a deserted look as there were no tourists although the tourist season had started. Naltar is a valley and strategically important since centuries. Huge snow covered mountains have covered this valley from all sides. Below the mountains there are lush green meadows. There are glaciers in this valley. The potatoes in this area are very cheap. We went to an Air force Mess and a skiing club. The chair lift was out of work. The time we went the Mess was being renovated. After resting for sometime we planned to go outside. We reached a spot where a small mosque was built then we climbed up the small mountain on the way we found some very rare herbs these only grow in high altitudes. On the top we saw a very ancient bunker and if one looked down it looked like a conquerors corridor with immense strategic importance. Then we went to the skiing slope.
We walked along a stream and the whole time me and my brothers were searching for precious stones and my mother for rare plants. All I found was a golden colored stone and a white colored stone which were extremely important to my disappointed heart. I came to know that why the tourists are not here, because there had been Shia-Sunni-Ismaili clashes. We ordered our food and ate it in a traditionally decorated tent. It was decorated in a more Central Asian like style. Long red colored sofas and rugs were lying down. After having all the fun which we could have we decided to return back. I saw the last glimpses of the beautiful valley. I asked my father to drive the jeep and obtain a rare chance to drive on a mountainous trek. My dad being such a good driver accepted this offer and as soon as we left the spot the car became stuck. We reached back Gilgit and decided to go to the market. I went to a mobile shop in search of some cheap Chinese mobile phones. I asked the price of a mobile phone. The shopkeeper after thinking replied JUST 7000 Rupees. God damn! I said is he out of his mind or is he drunk. A mobile with no guarantee no brand and above all it was Chinese made, was so expensive. I was very disheartened. We went back to the Mess and ate baked potatoes for dinner. I watched some TV and then went to the garden nearby. I met some families living there. These were the families of the army Officers living there. We were getting closer to them that we had to leave.
Fourth day
The next day we packed for a long and interesting journey to Sost. We sat in a van and started our journey. I got a front seat. The first town on the way was Danyore. The road after Gilgit is smooth and very good that even small cars can go. After we pass Gilgit the Gilgit River becomes the Khunjerab River. Actually it is the same river which on the Chinese side is called Taxshang River, when it comes on the Khunjerab side becomes Khunjerab River, then river Gilgit, and then Indus finally ends up at Karachi. The driver was a local man he told us that the mountains here contained red rubies and anyone who could find one he owns that. On the way saw the Altit fort which is on steep cliff. On the way I saw Rakaposhi Mountain. At last after hours of travel we reached Sost, Sost is a small town surrounded by mountains. There is small bazaar. We stopped there at a motel (Ski Ways).The local population is dependant on tourism, trade and transport. The goods coming from China pass through Sost. The first city for these goods is Sost; here these goods are inspected by the customs. We had rest and in the evening we went to a nearby village we had a friend here he took us to his village up the hill. There were orchards of khubanis. The house was good. It had large windows which gave a perfect scenery.
View of Sost City
We met the eldest member of the family. She was in a traditional dress, her age probably close or above 100.Hunza valley is one of the five places where people attain 120 years average. Our friend introduced her to us she was his mother. He told us that now she is a Great grand mother. She has seen her son’s
son’s son. The women here very long ages. They told us that any youngster who wants to study is sent to study in Karachi. We drank a local drink called Qamaruddin. This drink is thick and made up of dried khubanis. It tasted good. We then headed back to the motel. At night Sost is so quiet as if no one lives here. It’s a calm place.
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